I got twenty new coins… are any of them any good?

Here’s what I got:

1 Franc, 1918
2 Franc, 1918
2 Franc, 1919
20 Cent, Chile 1920
Un Peso, Mexico 1970
Diez Peso, Mexico 1980
1 Cent, Netherlands, 1901
5 Franc, 1916
2 Centesimi, 1861
Un Peso, 1981
Belgian Congo, 1926, 50 Cents
1 Franc, 1923
2 Zkote Poland?, 1934
10 Cents, France, 1896
10 Cents, France, 1867
10 Cents, Italy 1866
10 Cents, France, 1854
5 Cents, France, 1862
10 Cents, France 1867

I appreciate any input or ideas…if these aren’t worth anything feel free to tell me I won’t be offended.

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Where can i find an online place for seeing coin value?

I want to find out how much my coins are worth. I’ve looked on google but all the websites havent been working. Could you recomend a good place online. Or even a good book for looking up world coin value. Thx

For more specific advice about the value of your coin, we recommend asking in the What’s it Worth section of Coin Talk.

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My Coin Collection Part 1: Pennies

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Coin Value?

I have a 1901 1/2 franc Swiss coin that values between to 00 dollars. But does anyone know the exact value? It is in very good condition.

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You Need to Know the Grade

One of the first things that a beginning coin collector does is try to determine how much a coin is worth, and he almost immediately encounters are the words “grade” and “condition.” Just what is a “grade” and what determines what grade a coin receives is a topic of debate among collectors throughout their collecting lives. Is it an art or a science? Can it be learned? Can I learn to grade my own coins?

Good questions all, and more easily asked than answered.

The condition of a coin is one of the components of how collectable and how valuable a coin is. The other main components in determining value are rarity and demand. Age is often only a minor consideration in determining the coin’s value. A rare new coin may be much more valuable than a common old coin. A coin in excellent condition is often worth far more than a coin in bad condition. And a rare coin in bad condition may be worth more than a common coin in beautiful condition. And naturally, if nobody wants a coin, its value isn’t very high (But demand or desire for a coin often fluctuates, so the same coin that is worth $50 today may be worth $20 or $75 next year!)

William H. Sheldon devised the grading system that is commonly used by numismatists today. Prior to Sheldon’s system coins were simply described by such terms as “good,” or “fine,” or “extremely fine.” But these terms were somewhat vague, and there was no real standardization of what a “fine” coin should look like.

Sheldon devised a numerical scale which ran from 1 to 70. The higher the number, the better a coin’s condition was in the opinion of the grader. A detailed description of the grading system is beyond the scope of this article, but may be addressed in the future.

So what is usually considered in determining a coin’s condition?

1. Whether or not a coin has circulated. An uncirculated coin is usually assigned a higher grade than a circulated coin. Unless a coin is certified as uncirculated by a reputable third-party grading service the determination of whether a coin is considered uncirculated is often the result of examining the attributes described below.

2. The Quality of a Coin’s Strike. This occurs at the time a coin is minted. A coin can be said to be strongly struck or weakly struck. Among the factors determining the quality of a coin’s strike is the pressure with which the coin is struck, the quality of the planchet used to produce the coin, and the quality of the die used to strike the coin. This will determine how crisp the design elements appear on the coin. This can vary greatly from type to type, from year to year, and even from mint to mint. So comparing the strike quality of a Lincoln Cent to that of a Winged Liberty (Mercury) Dime is not very helpful. But looking for variations within a type (among 1919 Lincoln Cents, for example) is a determining factor in value. A particularly well-struck coin may bring a premium. A relatively weakly struck coin is not considered as desirable.

3. Current Surface Condition vs. Original Surface Condition (Often referred to as “Surface Preservation.”). What I am referring to here is the presence of nicks, scratches, gouges, and other types of damage to the surface of a coin. Some coins are more susceptible to damage in certain areas. The absence or presence and the extent of this damage is what a grader is looking for. And the damage considered acceptable in some coins is almost ruinous in others. Another phenomenon I have noticed is that some collectors consider damage to the obverse (heads) side of the coin more serious than damage to the reverse (tails) side of the coin.

4. Luster. The best way I can describe this is the “texture” of the coin’s surface. Some people refer to it as how shiny a coin is. This can be very misleading because a coin may have been cleaned, which can produce a shiny appearance, but the surface of the coin has been marred in the cleaning process (or even have had the original surface molecules of the coin completely removed), which results in a lower degree of luster. In addition, certain surfaces and certain coins have different surface features. A satiny, mirror-like, or frosty surface may be the norm in specific coins. The more of the original surface which remains, generally speaking, the better a coin’s luster.

5. Color. Although it sounds simple, this is often a difficult concept, and is often quite subjective. Certain coins maintain their original color as they age. Some coins naturally change color, or “tone,” despite the fact that no physical damage has been done to them. Some collectors pay premiums for “well-toned” silver coins which may acquire all the colors of the rainbow on a single surface of the coin. Some collectors would never touch a toned coin, and are very dismayed to find that over time their “perfect” silver dollar has been “ruined.”

6. Eye-Appeal. Again, this can be considered a very subjective part of Coin Grading, although many collectors will tell you that this is not the case. Just as the words imply, this is an overall perception of how attractive a coin is. Coins with low eye-appeal are not considered as marketable or collectable, and are therefore considered of lower value.

There are resources in the form of books, magazines, journals, websites, and even software which can help in determining the grade of a coin. Some of these even include photographs of individual coins in various grades so that it is possible to compare a coin in your possession to the photograph to help determine its grade. Once a coin’s condition or grade has been determined there are may resources that are available to help you determine the value of a coin in the marketplace. Everything from the Official Red Book, to monthly magazines, to the website of the Professional Coin Grading Service can help with that. There are even websites like Coinflation, which will help you determine the value of a coin if you decide you just want to melt it down for the silver or gold it contains!

The very best “resource,” however , is experience in actually looking at large numbers of coins and understanding exactly what it is that numismatists are looking for.

Good luck in your coin collecting! And remember what my Grandfather told me, “The fun of coin collecting isn’t necessarily in the having, but rather in the seeking and the finding.”

Well, That’s-My-2-Cents

Arthur Haule is a coin collector, violinist and webmaster of the Violin Student Central website. He has collected coins since 1962, runs the US Coin Blog at Blogspot, and runs several Squidoo lenses including http://squidoo.com/buffalonickel .

Art Haule lives, plays violin, and designs T-shirts for http://www.cafepress.com/coincrazy in Flower Mound, Texas with his wife Kathy and his daughter Adriana.

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Using Guides to Value Coins

One of the most important pieces of information that a coin collector will want to know is how much a coin is worth. By knowing what a coin is worth will affect what they are willing to pay or sell it for. Plus it will help you to look and appreciate your coins much more. There are plenty of US coin value guides available both off and online. But some are certainly more accurate than others. However, what should be remembered is no one guide is foolproof. All the guides available will only provide you with an approximation of the market value and actual coin prices. So if you really want to know the market you should also see what coins are actually selling for.

A great place to look for such information is on auction sites such as eBay as well as various auction houses such as Heritage, Teletrade, Bowers and Merena and Stacks to name a few. Also you could take a look in your local and national coin shows as well as local coin shops to see what prices they have. But below are details of some of the more common US coin value guides that are in use today.

1. US Coin Digest

This is much like the Red Book but it includes coin pricing for more grades. Where in the Red Book has only pricing for six grades of the Morgan Dollars in the US Coin Digest it has pricing for 11 grades. It also contains a bit more background information in relation to coins in general.

2. Greysheet

This is officially called the Coin Dealer Newsletter and is an expensive subscription periodical ($98 per year). It is most commonly used price guide to be used by dealers when setting their own prices. However, it does contain wholesale prices also (so it is a wise choice for the more savvy collectors out there). The prices in this are based on coins graded according to industry standards. But they also include pricing for properly graded raw coins when compiling their figures. However, the biggest weakness of this publication is that it ignores the current state of grading services.

3. Numismedia Price Guide

This is an online service and is similar to the PCGS Price Guide. But the prices on this site can be somewhat higher than those that appear in printed guides. However, this site has been a subscription service since 2003 and costs $96 per year for you to be able to see the pricing of grades above MS-60.

So as you can see from above there are plenty of different US coin value guides available not just in book format but also online also.

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How to Know an Old Coin Value

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Three Steps to Find Your Coin's Value

Anyone who has a coin collection loves to know exactly how valuable the pieces are, even if they have no intention of selling them. Here we have put down three tips on how you can get an estimate on the value of your coins.

1. How rare is the coin?

We all believe that a coin gets more valuable when it gets rare to find. This is true in most cases, but there are a few exceptions to the rule like everything else. People also believe that the older the coin the more valuable it is, which is also not always true. At one instance a 1000 year old coin from China was finally sold only for a few American dollars, because there were many such coins that had been well preserved. Then we have the 1931 nickel that has been called the Liberty Head, and that one sold for over a million US dollars! This is because only 5 of these still remain.

2. The wear and tear that the coin has experienced

It is well known that the better that the conditions of the coins in your collection is, the more would they fetch you in terms of money, were you to sell them. Any coin that has been preserved in ‘mint’ condition, that is, hasn’t ever been circulated is well worth a hundred times another of its time in average condition. However, remember not to try and overdo the cleaning on your circulated coins, in the hope of making them look ‘near-mint’, you may end up scratching the surfaces even more.

3. Supply and Demand

When there is a greater demand for anything in this world, the price tends to go up. If a coin is high in demand its value would go up regardless of the fact that there may be many available around the world, that is – it is not a rare coin. For example let us consider the 1916 dimes to coins from 1798. The 1916 coins are far more valuable simply because more people tend to collect them as compared to 1798 coins. In fact there are only about thirty thousand dime coins available from 1798, and well over four hundred thousand 1916 ones. But that seems to have little effect on the values of these coins. That is supply and demand in a nutshell for you.

You may want to seek the help of a professional collector or dealer if you wish to put an accurate value to a certain coin or coins in your collection. Maybe you are planning to sell some of your rare coins if you have ‘doubles’, or maybe you plan to have your own coin auction. I any case, it is wise to have an idea of how much each coin in your collection is worth. Remember if you are planning to sell a series it is valued more than the sum of the individual coins.

Abhishek is an avid Coin Collecting enthusiast and he has got some great Coin Collecting Secrets up his sleeve! Download his FREE 58 Page Ebook, “Understanding And Mastering The Art Of Coin Collecting!” from his website http://www.Fun-Galore.com/92/index.htm. Only limited Free Copies available.

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Four Web Resources to Help You Value Your Coins

1. Greysheet – www.greysheet.com

2. CoinTalk – www.cointalk.com

3. PCGS – www.pcgs.com

4. Numismaster – www.numismaster.com

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